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| Home >> Technical >> Over deck control line tails |
18/09/2020 19:17:00
Posts: 0
16/09/2020 11:10:00
Andy Butler
Posts: 19
Hi Robert,
No need to apologise to me, it is all personal preference.
I am interested in your idea of not using a shockcord tidy.
Ultimately they are only tails, so as long as it works then minimisation for simplicity and lightness is beneficial..
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13/09/2020 22:48:00
Peter Barton
Posts: 4678
PS: Thanks to Matt Thursfield who was instrumental in advising me to ditch the system as currently supplied with new boats (apologies to Pete Barton for such insurrection)
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13/09/2020 14:54:00
Posts: 0
Personally, I prefer the very early method people used when converting to over-deck controls. Just use rings (or Ronstan 5mm shocks if preferred) secured to the through deck holes. You can make righting handles under the gunwhales as in Marc’s video too. Don’t change the original plan for which cleat serves outhaul or downhaul on each side as the cleats are aligned with left and right sides of the mast so you will save some friction by keeping to the original design. Do swap the double, bottom downhaul block with two singles to save more friction.
Send the outhaul control lines straight across the deck from side to side as in the version 2 plans on the RS site.
Take the downhaul lines forward through a strong ring or shock led from a line round the bottom of the mast. The supplied control line on new boats is just long enough to do this with a 40cm splice as in the Rooster video quoted below. The position of this ring or shock can be adjusted to limit the upward movement of the downhaul so don’t cut it off too soon!
Notice that NO SHOCKCORD TIDY IS USED. This is important. You will be able to let off big lumps of downhaul as you approach the windward mark without fighting the pullback from the standard elastic tidying device.
If you find you have loose line in the water on the lee side when the downhaul is on just grab the nearest bit, pull it through the shock or ring near the mast and chuck it on the deck. Still too much? Adjust the length of line attached to the mast base. You can even pull on downhaul through the far side cleat via the ring or shock attached to the mast provided it is strong enough (and you are sitting on the windward one! )
Worth considering!
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13/09/2020 13:00:00
Posts: 0
This is the link to Marc's video in case the youtube link in his post doesn't work for others.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GtsjrtcXI6k
Thanks for posting it Marc.
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22/07/2020 08:46:00
Andy Butler
Posts: 19
I'm still contemplating the set-up of my new boat, but will probably copy Eric Aker's downhaul rigging (see pic). It's very clean, allows plenty of throw to retract the tail reliably, and keeps the retraction blocks to the side and off the deck so boats don't get scratched/damaged when stacked for travel.
I'll replace the bullet blocks shown with Ronstan 5mm sheaveless blocks to save weight.
The line that comes standard with the boat is of good quality and has a nice hand, but it doesn't flow through the blocks as smoothly as Rooster EasySplice.
Here's a video to illustrate (I had to make a video since adding picture attachments is difficult on this site).
Marc Jacobi
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I'll replace the bullet blocks shown with Ronstan 5mm sheaveless blocks to save weight.
The line that comes standard with the boat is of good quality and has a nice hand, but it doesn't flow through the blocks as smoothly as Rooster EasySplice.
Here's a video to illustrate (I had to make a video since adding picture attachments is difficult on this site).
Marc Jacobi
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21/07/2020 20:12:00
heymatey
Posts: 32
Hey Marc - do you have pictures of how you setup the take up? I would love to set that up as I have extra line for the out haul and when I let the down haul go most times it just stays
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20/07/2020 13:07:00
Mauricio
Posts: 3
24/05/2020 20:03:00
Michael Heber
Posts: 63
I just spliced them yesterday. I got an instruction manual from RS for this.
https://www.rssailingstore.com/files//4385ebcf-86f7-46ae-996c-a99200cf4aee/Aero%20instructions%20-%20OVER%20DECK%20CONTROL%20LINES%20(ROOSTER).pdf
In the guide v6 it is not explained, how to splice it. My guide ha the name "Over Deck Control Lines V2"
I would also prefer splicing.
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24/05/2020 20:01:00
Michael Heber
Posts: 63
I am setting up a new boat and have the rope pack that comes with it. This now has the control lines overdeck as standard but says to whip the two ends of the lines together. I assume splicing these would be a better option? Are there any instructions on how best to do this?
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24/05/2020 09:58:00
Claire
Posts: 3
Just echoing the request for any photos of the "less cluttered" version. Anyone out there got any?
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23/05/2020 18:46:00
Andy Butler
Posts: 19
Another candidate for over deck controls here - was going to go the Rooster route using a couple of stainless steel rings instead of the Ronstan Shocks. Any problems with this? Have also got a couple of small kite blocks lying around which I could use - again any comments good or bad. Keen to see what a more simplified layout looks like. Definitely photos please if possible or a more detailed description or diagram - mind you no rush at the moment for obvious reasons. :) Bought the boat in late November and have managed to get sailing on six occasions before lockdown - bursting to go sailing . . . . .
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15/04/2020 21:09:00
Yotter/Robin Gray
Posts: 13
14/04/2020 23:49:00
Raptor
Posts: 4
Hi, I also prefer the less cluttered setup like Marc. I had the Rooster standard setup and changed it. I started with 7m for outhaul and 9m for cunningham of Rooster easysplice. I set it up and after seeing how much I needed, I Cut a little off and then spliced it.
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I highly recommend the less-cluttered setup. We sail in light wind a lot, and having blocks by the traveler sure makes things uncomfortable! Both my downhaul and outhaul lines have shockcord take-ups, but next time around I'll skip it for the outhaul and just have the line go side-to-side across the deck.
Sorry I don't have lengths. When setting our systems up, we bought a lot of line and initially tied the ends together. After sailing with the systems that way, it was easy to determine lengths before splicing. If anything, err long!
I also recommend leading the downhaul through the forward side-deck cleats on *both* sides, with the outhaul in the aft cleats (outhaul is adjusted less frequently and requires less pulling than the downhaul). Use different color lines to make it easier to distinguish between the two. Rooster's EasySplice line works well in this application.
Marc Jacobi
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Sorry I don't have lengths. When setting our systems up, we bought a lot of line and initially tied the ends together. After sailing with the systems that way, it was easy to determine lengths before splicing. If anything, err long!
I also recommend leading the downhaul through the forward side-deck cleats on *both* sides, with the outhaul in the aft cleats (outhaul is adjusted less frequently and requires less pulling than the downhaul). Use different color lines to make it easier to distinguish between the two. Rooster's EasySplice line works well in this application.
Marc Jacobi
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14/04/2020 00:48:00
heymatey
Posts: 32
Hi fellow aeronauts,
I'm going to change my aero to overdeck controls and have seen a few variations in photos online. The 'standard' one seems to be the Rooster approach with the two small blocks attached to the traveller eye. I've also seen one without these where both cunningham and outhaul looking like they go staight up to a eye on a length of elastic. I must admit that the second one looks less cluttered etc but I can't find any details on lengths of control line etc. Can anyone share?
Thanks
Phil
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13/04/2020 18:14:00
PJT
Posts: 6
