Welcome to the International Class Association website for the RS Aero. Here you will find all there is to know about the RS Aero including the latest news, how to register your boat, and links to relevant documents.
| Home >> Technical >> Kicker pulled out of deck - how to re-fix |
Same thing happened - followed the advice given by Toni - one thing that we noticed was that the new screws provided by RS are thicker (heavier gauge) than the ones originally fitted - also you could see where the holes in the deck from the original screws had 'softened' due to water ingress.
Reply
Reply
05/09/2023 18:04:00
SSJTennis
Posts: 8
16/06/2021 13:41:00
Richard Woods
Posts: 1
Thanks for all the replies - I had not considered the dowels route. It does seam like a bit of a design flaw to have the recess for water to collect in and then soak down the screw holes, not to mention using self tappers in the first place.
The info from Toni Hillyard at RS was as follows:
The easiest fix for this would be to fill in the old holes, then turn the fitting through 90 degrees, drill new holes and screw in – to make this more secure you could mix up some epoxy and put this in the hole before the new screws go in which would help to hold them in. There’s ½ inch thick marine ply laminated into the underside of the deck.
If you would like to fit a hatch so you can put something more substantial on the backs then this could go anywhere forward of the fitting up to the mast pot, there isn’t anything structural in this area. On the centreline is fine to put the hatch, there’s no support in that part as there’s no load put on that section (or shouldn’t be!).
So this agrees with Garth's method.
After taking advice from others as well as here and RS, this is what I did yesterday, before reading the dowel suggestion.
These have a slot in the top for a flat screwdriver and I used ones with an outside of M10 coarse thread that should hold tight in wood (especially if put in with a bit of epoxy as suggested) and the inner thread is M5 so will use the machine screw on that side with a bit of thread lock. I'll give this a try first before cutting in a hatch to get to the back as I think the M10 would have much greater holding power than the M5 self tapper. When this epoxy has set I will then gel coat back over the top around the machine screws.
(Bushings in a range of sizes from A2A4 Stainless http://www.a2a4.com/acatalog/INSERT-BUSHING-FOR-WOOD.html.
They are Church Street,Shirley, Southampton and do mail order)
When putting the bushes in its difficult to get them straight but best to do it in one go rather than screw in and then remove, cover in epoxy and screw back in as if you don't get threads aligned on second screwing in it is not as strong a hold.
Does anyone know why on the original install of this fitting there are washers over the screws between the fitting and the recess so the fitting is held above the bottom of the recess?
I will update topic with how repair holds in due course. But if it fails I can resort to the dowel route with nothing lost. These bushes are effectively a dowel with built in thread in the middle!
Thanks again for all replies
Neil
Reply
The info from Toni Hillyard at RS was as follows:
The easiest fix for this would be to fill in the old holes, then turn the fitting through 90 degrees, drill new holes and screw in – to make this more secure you could mix up some epoxy and put this in the hole before the new screws go in which would help to hold them in.
If you would like to fit a hatch so you can put something more substantial on the backs then this could go anywhere forward of the fitting up to the mast pot, there isn’t anything structural in this area. On the centreline is fine to put the hatch, there’s no support in that part as there’s no load put on that section (or shouldn’t be!).
So this agrees with Garth's method.
After taking advice from others as well as here and RS, this is what I did yesterday, before reading the dowel suggestion.
As there is there is the 1/2 inch ply I decided to screw in stainless "insert bushings for wood" as in the attached image.
(Bushings in a range of sizes from A2A4 Stainless http://www.a2a4.com/acatalog/INSERT-BUSHING-FOR-WOOD.html.
They are Church Street,Shirley, Southampton and do mail order)
The only problem was that after drilling the 8.5mm hole for the bush I could see that the ply was only 9mm or less - no where near the 1/2 inch its meant to be.
So the full 12mm length of the bush will not be in the wood. May be its boats with this thinner than spec ply where the screws are pulling out, as there is not much to hold the self tapper.
When putting the bushes in its difficult to get them straight but best to do it in one go rather than screw in and then remove, cover in epoxy and screw back in as if you don't get threads aligned on second screwing in it is not as strong a hold.
Does anyone know why on the original install of this fitting there are washers over the screws between the fitting and the recess so the fitting is held above the bottom of the recess?
I will update topic with how repair holds in due course. But if it fails I can resort to the dowel route with nothing lost. These bushes are effectively a dowel with built in thread in the middle!
Thanks again for all replies
Neil
Reply
30/01/2020 09:06:00
Neil
Posts: 34
Did the same 30 years ago with my Laser. I removed all screws, if they have been loose I filled with Epoxid, drilled a new hole and put them all back with Sikaflex.
If I read this here, it seems, that this is also recommended for the Aero.
Does anybody know, if there are some screws fixed with nuts, because for these screws it will be not a good idea.
Reply
29/01/2020 13:22:00
Michael Heber
Posts: 63
Water sits in the deck recess for the kicker. Next time you're putting the boat away, blow hard on the kicker area and you'll see how much water is retained in the recess.
Despite Sikaflex on the screws etc, water eventually seeps into the screw holes and starts to loosen the timber. I checked tightness of screws after about 4 years and found not tightening firmly. Drilled holes out to firm timber, epoxied in tight fitting hardwood dowel, then re-drilled, applied sikaflex and then screwed fitting back on tight. So far so good. Did the same for the compass mount button which had also come loose.
Preventative maintenance recommended before pulling out creates more damage.
Reply
Reply
29/01/2020 08:34:00
RonF 'Delphine'
Posts: 28
Happened on my first hull. I rotated the fitting and I think I might have drilled an extra hole. (Obviously filled the old holes). Talk to after sales though - that's what I did. Haven't heard it happening on many boats.
Reply
28/01/2020 16:31:00
Gareth
Posts: 170
Thanks Peter.
Will ask after sales to post reply here as will then be useful to others - I can't be the only boat that this has happened to (or will happen to) as its only about 3.5 years old.
Reply
27/01/2020 11:35:00
Neil
Posts: 34
Neil,
I recommend you contact RS Sailing Customer Support for technical questions and a recommended fixing solution for that, they don't necessarily monitor this forum; [email protected]
The Class Rules are on the Documents page of the website, see C.6.1.3 (f) for hatches.
Reply
27/01/2020 10:44:00
Peter Barton
Posts: 4681
Can't find a post relating to this so apologies if its already answered in another topic.
Pulled the kicker on today and the fitting just pulled out of the deck. It only held in with two self tappers which is very disappointing as would have expected bolts with backing pad to spread the load and captive nuts. Any tips on how to permanently stop this happening again would be welcomed. Wondering if the easiest is to cut a small inspection hatch and bold back on with large penny washers. Is there a class limitation on where the hatch can go?
Thanks
Neil
Reply
26/01/2020 15:05:00
Neil
Posts: 34
