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I am going to answer my own questions...
1) yes. I should have read the rules first
2) does not make any sense...
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1) yes. I should have read the rules first
2) does not make any sense...
Reply
01/10/2021 22:36:00
Giorgio
Posts: 6
"......A 20 mm block tightly tied to the gooseneck sheave....."
Is it allowed to have a separate block hanging from the gooseneck and bypassing the sheave inside the gooseneck.?
can the same be done for the outhaul ?
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Is it allowed to have a separate block hanging from the gooseneck and bypassing the sheave inside the gooseneck.?
can the same be done for the outhaul ?
Reply
01/10/2021 21:47:00
Giorgio
Posts: 6
Hi Giorgio,
What you say makes sense.
Yes the cover needs to be in the cleat, even at the limit of 'hard-on'.
It also makes sense to position the taper such that the end of the buried cover is between the cleat and the deck tidy turning block at this point; to maximise the ease of pulling on the kicker you get from tapering.
Be sure to taper off the buried core, over say 5 - 8 cm. If yuo don't as it passes round the gooseneck and deck tidy blocks it can work it's way out of the core, protruding.
Other points to consider:-
A 20 mm block tightly tied to the gooseneck sheave. The gooseneck sheave is 15 mm, the tightest in the system. I have used a cheap palin bearing block, as is the gooseneck sheave. It is both less friction and much easier to thread when rigging.
You may find threading the 5 mm um tapered part of the kicker through the Harken 18 mm Deck Tidy turning block difficult, I beleieve it's rated maximum ripe diameter is 5 mm. Within the rules you are allowed to substitute a close size block from another manufacturer, Allen do a 20 mm, whose max rope dia' is 6 mm. Not much difference, but I found it worthwhile.
I did try to take a couple of photos of my set up; unfortunately they seem to have corrupted & won't load.
Good luck & I hope you find these points useful.
Reply
What you say makes sense.
Yes the cover needs to be in the cleat, even at the limit of 'hard-on'.
It also makes sense to position the taper such that the end of the buried cover is between the cleat and the deck tidy turning block at this point; to maximise the ease of pulling on the kicker you get from tapering.
Be sure to taper off the buried core, over say 5 - 8 cm. If yuo don't as it passes round the gooseneck and deck tidy blocks it can work it's way out of the core, protruding.
Other points to consider:-
A 20 mm block tightly tied to the gooseneck sheave. The gooseneck sheave is 15 mm, the tightest in the system. I have used a cheap palin bearing block, as is the gooseneck sheave. It is both less friction and much easier to thread when rigging.
You may find threading the 5 mm um tapered part of the kicker through the Harken 18 mm Deck Tidy turning block difficult, I beleieve it's rated maximum ripe diameter is 5 mm. Within the rules you are allowed to substitute a close size block from another manufacturer, Allen do a 20 mm, whose max rope dia' is 6 mm. Not much difference, but I found it worthwhile.
I did try to take a couple of photos of my set up; unfortunately they seem to have corrupted & won't load.
Good luck & I hope you find these points useful.
Reply
30/09/2021 10:10:00
Jonathan Rickels
Posts: 104
28/09/2021 03:33:00
Giorgio
Posts: 6
28/09/2021 01:05:00
Simon Wilkins
Posts: 21
Hi Jonathan, thanks for the clear advice.
I will infact go for a 5mm rope, the non tapered part should feel better in hand than the 4mm.
I agree with the taper transition sitting mid deck, near the compass button, but I have measured the length to be tapered in a different way. Without sail, I have rigged boom and vang, and pulled vang to max, so that the 4 way system gets to block-to-block just under the boom. This will ensure that no matter how hard the vang is pulled, the exposed core will ver get to the cleat. Is this making any sense?
Reply
I will infact go for a 5mm rope, the non tapered part should feel better in hand than the 4mm.
I agree with the taper transition sitting mid deck, near the compass button, but I have measured the length to be tapered in a different way. Without sail, I have rigged boom and vang, and pulled vang to max, so that the 4 way system gets to block-to-block just under the boom. This will ensure that no matter how hard the vang is pulled, the exposed core will ver get to the cleat. Is this making any sense?
Reply
27/09/2021 19:46:00
Giorgio
Posts: 6
Hi Giorgio,
I have the 5 mm version of the same GM Evolution Race as my Kicker 2'ry.
The cover on that is certainly not 1 mm thick. I suspect the cover on the 4 mm you have will be similarly < 1 mm.
If you have a clean cut end of the rope, not burned or melted, then you should be able to measure the dimater of the core as the cover holds the core quite tightly and circular.
Trying to meaure the core out of the cover will be tricky as it is so flexible it won't hold to a true circular shape.
If you can measure the core at 3 mm and wish to continue with tapering I would suggest you put the taper point, the point where core & cover swap over in the run over the deck from the deck tidy turning block to the swivel cleat. I did this and tfound a significant easing in the effort required to pulling on kicker to get the boom horizontal.
I set mine up by supporting the boom outboard end on the halyard, and adjusting the halyard until the boom was horizontal; check with a spirit level or measure from the toestrap rear most cockpit floor bracket to the underside of the boom, about 68 cm. Then pull on kicker, hard. If the boom starts to bend you have good tension.
Mark where the kicker core exit point, I suggest by the compass bracket deck button, and the tail of the cover that gets tucked inside the exposed core, 35 cm seems recommended, should be clear of the deck tidy turning block when sailing upwind.
Good Luck, Good Sailing, &. I hope this helps.
Jonathan
Reply
I have the 5 mm version of the same GM Evolution Race as my Kicker 2'ry.
The cover on that is certainly not 1 mm thick. I suspect the cover on the 4 mm you have will be similarly < 1 mm.
If you have a clean cut end of the rope, not burned or melted, then you should be able to measure the dimater of the core as the cover holds the core quite tightly and circular.
Trying to meaure the core out of the cover will be tricky as it is so flexible it won't hold to a true circular shape.
If you can measure the core at 3 mm and wish to continue with tapering I would suggest you put the taper point, the point where core & cover swap over in the run over the deck from the deck tidy turning block to the swivel cleat. I did this and tfound a significant easing in the effort required to pulling on kicker to get the boom horizontal.
I set mine up by supporting the boom outboard end on the halyard, and adjusting the halyard until the boom was horizontal; check with a spirit level or measure from the toestrap rear most cockpit floor bracket to the underside of the boom, about 68 cm. Then pull on kicker, hard. If the boom starts to bend you have good tension.
Mark where the kicker core exit point, I suggest by the compass bracket deck button, and the tail of the cover that gets tucked inside the exposed core, 35 cm seems recommended, should be clear of the deck tidy turning block when sailing upwind.
Good Luck, Good Sailing, &. I hope this helps.
Jonathan
Reply
26/09/2021 15:27:00
Jonathan Rickels
Posts: 104
is the kicker control line provided as stock (that I believe is a Gottifredi Maffioli Evolution Race - 4mm) suitable for tapering? i.e.: does it have a 3 mm core? I cannot find any technical reference to it even on the GM product catalog
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23/09/2021 05:09:00
Giorgio
Posts: 6
Just fitted the tapered kicker from Rooster. What a difference. Ok,it was very light winds but it was so much easier to use than the untapered version
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10/11/2019 17:08:00
Dunsmall
Posts: 25
04/11/2019 16:22:00
steverooster
Posts: 19
Steve.
What size/type of rope do you use for the Rooster tapered kicker? Would like to stick with 4mm but this seems to mean that the core is sub 3mm - is this correct?
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04/11/2019 13:37:00
Posts: 0
01/11/2019 07:25:00
steverooster
Posts: 19
Hiya,
I regularly make these. Can bring to all events or post!
Send me an email.
[email protected]
Sammy
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01/11/2019 00:24:00
Sammy I-J
Posts: 24
On a number of occasions I've toyed with the idea of getting some kit and learning to splice but I've never had a big enough need for it, given the level of investment needed.
I suspect I may not be alone.
Which leaves me wondering - is there anyone who has the skills and some time, who would like to put together some tapered vang control lines? I'd be happy to pay a fair price for the work involved - and there might be a queue of customers!
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31/10/2019 20:51:00
Hairsy
Posts: 44
Hi Don,
The tapered part should be maximum length of about 1.60m to avoid reaching the cleat.
Class rules state that the kicker should be a minimum diameter of 3mm, so if you are tapering by stripping a rope check that the core is 3mm+.
For the non tapered part 4mm is the normal and works well, otherwise 5mm if you want an easier grip.
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30/10/2019 23:36:00
Peter Barton
Posts: 4676
Does anyone know the length of the taper for a tapered vang?
What size line is recommended?
Don Winston
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30/10/2019 02:12:00
Djwpe
Posts: 13
