|Home >> Technical >> Daggerboard case rear rubber fender strip loose|
Mike Johnson of the Seattle, USA, RS Aero fleet recently had to re-bond the fender strip to the rear of the daggerboard case on their fleet's loaner RS Aero.
Thanks to Mike for creating the account below of his experience in fixing this, so others may benefit.
I checked in with Jim Hood (aka Junior) at RS Sailing on this topic for a conclusion, he confirmed;
- 'The bumper strip is tapered (top fatter) and it is originally inserted downwards from the deck . It should be very hard to fully remove downwards out of the hull due to the taper.
- RS Sailing use Sabatak adhesive. Sikaflex is OK too. The Americans can use 5200 which is fine. It is important to use something on the adhesive scale, rather than a sealant.
- To get it to move back upwards over the lip between the deck and case if it drops down; hammer it gently using a flat wooden block to dampen the impact and make flush with the hull.'
Ah. Part is on its way now, but thanks! Might try that but boat is going up for sale and new part might be the best way to go.
You don't need a new mast collar just glue it back on - sikaflex I think is the usual 'glue' I have done mine. Slide it up or down to expose the part under it and spread the glue. - Slide it over and then build up a glue fillet each end. Leave for a day before use.
Thanks Dave and Peter. I just gave it a a few sharp taps with a hammer and it’s back in place for the time being. I’ll do a more permanent job later if necessary. I actually happen to have a spare, coincidentally. First I have to fit a new mast collar as my old 9 mast rotates inside the one that I have.
the pictures at the bottom of this thread were from my boat. Peter's plan looks good to me - mine was a bit more complicated as I could not knock it all the way back in so after knocking it back in as far as I could I actually cut off the bottom bit and reinserted it in the top using 5200 - this repair has worked great for 3 years now...
Full details on what I reported back to my dealer in the USA are below...
"I have done the repair - but I could not pull/push the guide out through the top - it keeps hitting this ridge in the molding about 2cm below the deck - I even drilled a small hole in the top of the guide and inserted a long screw into the top to try and guide/pull it but that did not work. I also tried to pull it out the bottom but as RS say the casing or guide is tapered and it jams when there is about 15cm pulled out of the bottom.
So I went to my plan B - carefully cut the bottom 2cm off of the guide, pushed the longer part of the guide back in until it was flush at the bottom with some 5200 to secure it and inserted the 2cm piece at the top with some 5200 talking care to keep everything aligned. This morning before the 5200 was fully cured I tested it by putting the daggerboard through and it felt good"
It can happen when the glue bond breaks between the hull and the rubber strip to the rear of the case.
- Push it out a few inches
- Dry it
- Clean it
- Re-apply some glue (Sabatak, Sikaflex or 5200 recommended).
- Knock it back in gently using a flat wooden block and mallet/hammer (to dampen the impact and make flush with the hull)
- Let glue set
- Go sailing
Mine has dropped by about 10mm. I have my hammer ready but is this a common issue?
It may not seem like it, but that protrusion will have a very significant effect on your boat speed.
I suggest you ask your local dealer or as you are remote, ping an email with the pic to [email protected]
I was just checking over my Aero after trailing it back from the club and found that the retainer piece for the trailing edge of the daggerboard has come loose and slipped down - and there is a chip in the gelcoat by it too.
I could tap it in easily until about 2cm it protruding but now it is binding.
Any advice - can I tap it in harder without doing any damage and should I add some glue to bind it back on?