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| Home >> Technical >> Daggerboard case rear rubber fender strip loose |
I'm pleased to say that I sorted out the bumper strip on my boat yesterday. I followed Mike Johnson's suggested approach and it worked easily (tap the bumper strip out downwards, clean off the old glue - possibly the hardest part of the whole process - apply new glue and replace the strip from the top, pushing it down until the bottom of the strip is flush with the hull. As Mike also recommended, I put the daggerboard in before the glue dried to make sure the slot in the strip was correctlty aligned. Less than an hour from start to finish. So a big thankyou to Mike for his gudance and to all others who offered advice. My only concern now is whether I put enough glue on. I'll probably find out soon enough........
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05/04/2023 09:48:00
Ivor Keates
Posts: 6
Mike - thanks again, helpful as always. I am cxoming round to the idea that I should tap the bumper strip ouot of the bottom as you did. That should make it easier to refiit from the top, which makes sense given the taper. Looking at your sketch, to drive it up from underneath would require the strip to bend slightly to pass the ridge. Given how rigid the strip is, that seems unlikely. I have one further question, if I may. When the bottom of the strip is flush with the hull, is the top flush with the deck or slightly below?
Thanks.
Ivor (1741)
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Thanks.
Ivor (1741)
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01/04/2023 11:48:00
Ivor Keates
Posts: 6
Here is a sketch showing the bumper strip relative to the deck channel on the Seattle Fleet Loaner Aero.
Based on the explanation by Dave and Ivor, this might be the same problem they faced.
The repair I made has held up fine for the past three years.
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Based on the explanation by Dave and Ivor, this might be the same problem they faced.
The repair I made has held up fine for the past three years.
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31/03/2023 23:22:00
MJohns77
Posts: 5
Many thanks, Peter and Mike, for your further guidance. A dry run sounds like a very good idea. Then, if the bumper strip won't go back over the ridge in the deck moulding, I'll go for Mike's approach and tap it out downwards.
Mike - I'll have a go at getting a photo of the offending ridge but I'm not sure how easy it will be to get one that shows it well.
My glue (Sabatack) has apparently left Force 4 and is on its way to DHL and thence to me.By the time it arrives it may have stopped raining and I can get on with sorting out my boat.
Ivor (1741)
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Mike - I'll have a go at getting a photo of the offending ridge but I'm not sure how easy it will be to get one that shows it well.
My glue (Sabatack) has apparently left Force 4 and is on its way to DHL and thence to me.By the time it arrives it may have stopped raining and I can get on with sorting out my boat.
Ivor (1741)
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31/03/2023 14:03:00
Ivor Keates
Posts: 6
Ivor,
I suggest you try a dry run at tapping the rubber fender strip into position before you coat it with glue.
Removing it entirely has the benefit that you can clean off the old failed glue and then glue the entire length afresh (rather than just re-glueing the available protruding part).
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I suggest you try a dry run at tapping the rubber fender strip into position before you coat it with glue.
Removing it entirely has the benefit that you can clean off the old failed glue and then glue the entire length afresh (rather than just re-glueing the available protruding part).
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31/03/2023 11:02:00
Peter Barton
Posts: 4678
The advice given by Peter and Junior:
“To get it to move back upwards over the lip between the deck and case if it drops down; hammer it gently using a flat wooden block to dampen the impact and make flush with the hull.”
did not work in my case. About 20% of the fender strip was blocked by the lip at the bottom of the deck channel preventing it from moving into position, which sounds like what you are experiencing. In my case, tapping the plug downward was the only viable option and worked fine, although got a little tight near the end. It would help others if you could post a photo from the deck side showing how the strip is blocked from moving upward. Good luck.
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31/03/2023 01:28:00
MJohns77
Posts: 5
I found this problem on my boat last night. I was reluctant to hit it too hard to push it back in but advice from Peter B and Junior suggests this is the way to go. I will order some adhesive today and, next time we have a dry day (!) I'll give it a go. My main concern is that I apply adhesive but, like Dave, I am unable to knock it back in all the way to be flush with the hull. I would then be left with a rubber fender strip which is stuck, but still protruding. I did think of trying to push it all the way out downwards, but Mike Johnson's experience of the taper suggests that could also be risky.
I'll let you know how I get on.
Ivor K (1741)
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I'll let you know how I get on.
Ivor K (1741)
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30/03/2023 11:36:00
Ivor Keates
Posts: 6
Mike Johnson of the Seattle, USA, RS Aero fleet recently had to re-bond the fender strip to the rear of the daggerboard case on their fleet's loaner RS Aero.
Thanks to Mike for creating the account below of his experience in fixing this, so others may benefit.
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Thanks to Mike for creating the account below of his experience in fixing this, so others may benefit.
I checked in with Jim Hood (aka Junior) at RS Sailing on this topic for a conclusion, he confirmed;
- 'The bumper strip is tapered (top fatter) and it is originally inserted downwards from the deck . It should be very hard to fully remove downwards out of the hull due to the taper.
- RS Sailing use Sabatak adhesive. Sikaflex is OK too. The Americans can use 5200 which is fine. It is important to use something on the adhesive scale, rather than a sealant.
- To get it to move back upwards over the lip between the deck and case if it drops down; hammer it gently using a flat wooden block to dampen the impact and make flush with the hull.'
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02/10/2019 22:12:00
Peter Barton
Posts: 4678
Thanks Dave and Peter. I just gave it a a few sharp taps with a hammer and it’s back in place for the time being. I’ll do a more permanent job later if necessary.
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22/08/2019 19:42:00
Posts: 0
Hi Robert,
the pictures at the bottom of this thread were from my boat. Peter's plan looks good to me - mine was a bit more complicated as I could not knock it all the way back in so after knocking it back in as far as I could I actually cut off the bottom bit and reinserted it in the top using 5200 - this repair has worked great for 3 years now...
Full details on what I reported back to my dealer in the USA are below...
"I have done the repair - but I could not pull/push the guide out through the top - it keeps hitting this ridge in the molding about 2cm below the deck - I even drilled a small hole in the top of the guide and inserted a long screw into the top to try and guide/pull it but that did not work. I also tried to pull it out the bottom but as RS say the casing or guide is tapered and it jams when there is about 15cm pulled out of the bottom.
So I went to my plan B - carefully cut the bottom 2cm off of the guide, pushed the longer part of the guide back in until it was flush at the bottom with some 5200 to secure it and inserted the 2cm piece at the top with some 5200 talking care to keep everything aligned. This morning before the 5200 was fully cured I tested it by putting the daggerboard through and it felt good"
best regards
Dave #1758
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the pictures at the bottom of this thread were from my boat. Peter's plan looks good to me - mine was a bit more complicated as I could not knock it all the way back in so after knocking it back in as far as I could I actually cut off the bottom bit and reinserted it in the top using 5200 - this repair has worked great for 3 years now...
Full details on what I reported back to my dealer in the USA are below...
"I have done the repair - but I could not pull/push the guide out through the top - it keeps hitting this ridge in the molding about 2cm below the deck - I even drilled a small hole in the top of the guide and inserted a long screw into the top to try and guide/pull it but that did not work. I also tried to pull it out the bottom but as RS say the casing or guide is tapered and it jams when there is about 15cm pulled out of the bottom.
So I went to my plan B - carefully cut the bottom 2cm off of the guide, pushed the longer part of the guide back in until it was flush at the bottom with some 5200 to secure it and inserted the 2cm piece at the top with some 5200 talking care to keep everything aligned. This morning before the 5200 was fully cured I tested it by putting the daggerboard through and it felt good"
best regards
Dave #1758
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06/08/2019 14:24:00
drchadwi
Posts: 5
Hi Robert,
It can happen when the glue bond breaks between the hull and the rubber strip to the rear of the case.
- Push it out a few inches
- Dry it
- Clean it
- Re-apply some glue (Sabatak, Sikaflex or 5200 recommended).
- Knock it back in gently using a flat wooden block and mallet/hammer (to dampen the impact and make flush with the hull)
It can happen when the glue bond breaks between the hull and the rubber strip to the rear of the case.
- Push it out a few inches
- Dry it
- Clean it
- Re-apply some glue (Sabatak, Sikaflex or 5200 recommended).
- Knock it back in gently using a flat wooden block and mallet/hammer (to dampen the impact and make flush with the hull)
- Let glue set
- Go sailing
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06/08/2019 13:56:00
Peter Barton
Posts: 4678
05/08/2019 22:07:00
Posts: 0
It may not seem like it, but that protrusion will have a very significant effect on your boat speed.
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29/08/2016 16:44:59
david
Posts: 64
Hi David,
I suggest you ask your local dealer or as you are remote, ping an email with the pic to [email protected]
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28/08/2016 20:30:17
Peter Barton
Posts: 4678
I was just checking over my Aero after trailing it back from the club and found that the retainer piece for the trailing edge of the daggerboard has come loose and slipped down - and there is a chip in the gelcoat by it too.
I could tap it in easily until about 2cm it protruding but now it is binding.
Any advice - can I tap it in harder without doing any damage and should I add some glue to bind it back on?
thanks,
Dave
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28/08/2016 16:51:03
drchadwi
Posts: 5
