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Home >> Transport & Storage >> Trolley on trailer - suspension
31/07/2020 08:36:00

NIc Willcocks
Posts: 2
I did some basic modelling and found that the difference between a (full profile) 13" and 10" road tyre was in the region of 4 times the impact loading from road induced deflections. They also have less rolling resistance, and a greater spread over the road, evening out the bumps. I also replaced my rubber suspension bushes which were (0.75t / pair) rated down to 350 kg, (Trailertek sell them down to 250 kg). Nose loading of the trailer is also an important factor,  a slightly heavier nose loading will allow your superior car suspension to take up some of the impact loading from the front of the trailer. (check boat not full of water as this will shift when towing and can make nose weight negative and highly dangerous). Also Whilst I use ratchet straps these are brutal and prone to over tensioning and working loose. I use a loop of 10mm heavy duty shock cord between the tie down point and the ratchet so as to prevent over tightening and ensure an even and consistent load restraint. Just ensure that the loop is at the far end to the ratchet, else when released they can spring back catching a finger. Lastly there is the option of fitting shock absorbers, but I cant find an appropriate spec, may have to raid kids old quad bike.

30/07/2020 03:40:00

Tijuana Taxi
Posts: 15
Try softer wall road tyres on your trailer, with little to no weight, run them at about 24 psi, that should cushion the whole trailer more.
Alternatively,  make a sling for the beach dolly to rest in to allow for a little more give over rougher terrain.

30/07/2020 02:48:00

Posts: 2
Thanks both for your thoughts. I prefer a trailer option as its easy for one handed load/unload - though I see some folks do manage to roof top by themselves. The trolley on road base worked fine for the Laser, but yes I did find myself having to drive very carefully to avoid shaking it around too much. Will look at padding that fwd x-bar and adding more somewhere else in the rear stack - most likely remove wheels and support the axles with foam or similar.

25/07/2020 08:17:00

Jonathan Rickels
Posts: 76
If you go the route of a road base, even one built specifically for the Aero, you'll soon run into the very weight versus suspension spring rate issue / question you mention.
When I looked around for my own road base, having hired or borrowed before, I was soon advised that even the lightest spring rate rubber in compression axle that is used on the majority of trailers is substantially greater than the weight of the Aero; even with: a full set of spars, spar bag, a full set (all three) sails in bags, foils in padded bags, bottom & top cover all in or on the boat.  I found I could jump up and down on my trailer axle and it barely deflects, and I'm 70 Kg!!
In the UK we have some of the most pot holed roads in the western world.
The conclusion on jarring the boat I came to was to:-
   Fit the largest diameter wheels, 10" in my case, available for the road base.
   Put foam on the 1st trolley X-Bar, the one that goes under the mast step drain hole.  The boat tends to oscillate about the gunnel arms unless tied down securely at the bow.
    Remove the trolley wheels when trailing.  Even with 10" wheels they are only 2" off the road.  Go down a kerb or over some speed bumps and suddenly the whole rig weight transfers through the trolley wheels and gunnel arms.
   And drive carefully.
 Hope this helps.

24/07/2020 07:20:00

Posts: 4
You could bed it down on 10cm upholstery foam - I drove UK /France/UK  with two Toppers in a roofrack/foam/Topper/foam/Topper  sandwich, tied hard down with ratchet straps  -  I think that the hull might then be fine, BUT based on my own different experiences with actual towing of various types and sizes of boats, the probability is that you will  still shake all sorts of fastened fittings loose - you’d probably be unpleasantly surprised at how many nuts and screws can be lost, let alone loosened, by prolonged shaking.
If it were me, I’d just fit roof bars and car top it - but make sure that you tie the bow down to your car’s front breakdown winching eye , a useful feature of most modern cars -  it’s embarassing to say the least when you see your boat bouncing in the fast lane behind you .... (that was before the Toppers...) 🙈🙈🙈

23/07/2020 22:49:00

Posts: 2
Hi. Just got my Aero! Down here in South Island, NZ, so probably a couple of months until I sail. Anyway first question... I plan to transport it with trolley on top of house/garden trailer (for the short term at least), as I did for my Laser. The issue is that the trailer is has heavier (1 ton?) springs, so would give the boat a fairly rough ride. For the Laser it was on pneumatic tires which I felt solved the problem, but with the Aero trolley solid tires, it means any shocks from pot holes, etc, hit the boat hard. I've thought of changing the tires (but they are nice otherwise), or putting a compliant rubber block between axle and trailer (probably best), or adding padding between boat and trolley, but as you add suspension it then makes it more difficult to tie down, as you need some compliance in the strap. Anyway... has anyone looked at this... either decided its not required, or come up with a cunning solution? Thanks. Nick.


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