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Hi Peter
Thanks for the response. Yes, you are spot on, the slipping backwards of the boat does make that bow strap go slack and even a little bot of slipping renders it indeed useless.
So you are saying that the bow fairlead (which I had called a D-ring) can take the load of a'triangle painter' when towing, which is excellent news! Thanks a lot!!!
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Hi Matt,
Try this;
- Use some good 4mm rope. 5mm rope would work but any lager may start to struggle to get through the bow fitting on the deck.
- Tie a small loop in one end with a bowline. It needs to be just big enough to slide over one side of the trolley handle.
- Put that loop over one side of the trolley handle.
- Thread the lose end through the bow fairlead on top of the deck near the bow
- Pull it as tight as possible around the other side of the trolley handle with the boat full forward pressed against the blue bow support
- Wrap it around the trolley handle once to help hold it tight before tying off.
- Do 3 half hitches (that is one extra for good measure) around the two lengths of rope, pulling those tight will help tension the lashing. Whilst this lashing is mostly pulling forwards having it fully tight like this means you likely do not need a separate downwards component
- If this rope is long enough the tail can then also be used to tie the boat and trolley forwards and down to the front of the trailer or front of the car (if on the roof).
When using a strap over the top of the front part of an RS Aero you need to be wary that due to the shape of the RS Aero any slipping backwards of the boat will make that strap go slack and potentially useless. You need a good bow line tie.
I recommend not using the control line / righting line fairlead fitting on the front of the nose to tie forwards as I think those screw attachments are at the wrong angle to be used for a forwards painter.
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19/04/2019 18:13:00
Peter Barton
Posts: 5000
My Aero works itself slowly backwards on the launching trolley when I'm towing, which then creates a gradually increasing seasaw motion when hitting potholes. Ultimately I have to stop, move it forward and redo the straps. I have probably a slightly more 'wobbly' set up as I'm using a 29er roadbase which requires strapping down the launching trolley since; the trolley doesn't reach the front linch pin of the roadbase.
I'm wondering how to stop this without causing boat damage:
- the d ring on the nose looks quite small and I'm worried about pulling out the fitting screws if I attach a painter rope there going to the handle bar of the trolley
- same goes for the kicker clam cleat if I run a dyneema rope from there to the trolley/trailer front
- could I run a rope through the centre board slot of the hull to the trolley/trailer front?
- put a strap/sling around the transom going to the trolley/trailer front?
Anybody has come across that before, any advice/ideas? Thanks!
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