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Under Covers;
Trailing; Essential when trailing to keep stones, dirt and car fumes off the boat (unless high on a trailer)
Roof Rack; Good to keep your RS Aero clean going to an event if you are a keen racer. Otherwise not overly necessary
It is good to remove the undercover when the RS Aero is stored, to allow ventilation.
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12/06/2019 11:33:00
Peter Barton
Posts: 4681
In addition to using it for transport, we use it to protect the hull when we flip the boat for the winter.
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11/06/2019 01:09:00
david
Posts: 64
My next question is about bottom covers. Do people use these?
Do you use one when transporting on a roof rack to avoid stone chips? Is it necessary?
And what about in a dinghy park? Is it ok / sensible to use a bottom cover or is it better to allow some ventilation?
Thank you
Dave
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10/06/2019 22:15:00
Hairsy
Posts: 44
RS Aero - Singlehanded onto Car Roof
For ease of reference....
For ease of reference....
Requires: One sailing kit bag and one picnic rug.
Having several helpers is preferable but sometimes you are on your own. This method provides flexibility when car topping either at home or late at the sailing club when nobody is about.
I actually find this method easier than a straight two man lift as you are only lifting half the boat at a time and the other end is fixed so you are not committed to lifting in sync. So, if you struggle with a two person lift then this 'one end at a time' method with two people together may be preferable.
Tie boat to trolley at bow and amidships first. Then they lift as one and you only have to then tie the trolley to the roof bars / car.
Having several helpers is preferable but sometimes you are on your own. This method provides flexibility when car topping either at home or late at the sailing club when nobody is about.
I actually find this method easier than a straight two man lift as you are only lifting half the boat at a time and the other end is fixed so you are not committed to lifting in sync. So, if you struggle with a two person lift then this 'one end at a time' method with two people together may be preferable.
Tie boat to trolley at bow and amidships first. Then they lift as one and you only have to then tie the trolley to the roof bars / car.
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15/05/2019 23:34:00
Peter Barton
Posts: 4681
I load on my own most times. Key requirement is rug tied over the spoiler - tied down onto hatchback - it slips otherwise.
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Boat is tied onto trolley. Position boat with stern directly behind the car and bow alongside rear of the car.
Lift front of trolley so it rests on the rug. Pick back of boat up and slide up the rug. Lift back of boat higher so trolley bears on rear bar. Push forwards making sure to keep central - bars only just wide enough - I have about an inch or bar left either side.
Tie on. Whether you add bow/stern lines depends on the spread of the bars and whether you need to remove wheels depends on the car. I can leave wheels on and still open rear doors but I have a long car.
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15/05/2019 11:16:00
Gareth
Posts: 170
I' ve used the Peter Barton system several times with success ( I mean the video shown in the forum selection)
I prefer load only the boat on the roof,
It's safer for my back
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14/05/2019 16:15:00
Aerobasol
Posts: 27
Thank you for the replies so far. Good to hear that transporting is ok.
Worrying to hear the loading and unloading is a potential problem. I was definitely hoping to follow the Peter Barton method.
Any other views on single handed loading and unloading? I could presumably reduce weight by carrying gear in the car with seats down and perhaps strapping spar bags separately to the roof rack?
Thanks again
Dave
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14/05/2019 14:17:00
Hairsy
Posts: 44
I have carried the trolley on the roof bars of a Ford Focus Hatchback; where the rear bar is similarly well forward, and the two relatively close together, virtually the same positions as your Golf.
Carriage isn't a problem, just a question of tieing down securely; nor would it have been with the boat on the trolley.
Loading and unloading however is.
You can't do it single handed when the rear bar is so far forward.
And though the boat and trolley combination is still light, approx 45 kg, and OK for two adults, when you add in spars in spar bag, sails, top & bottom covers, and possibly foils in bags & sails in the boat you are soon at a weight that though still within the carrying capacity of the car and roof bars is becoming a struggle for four adults to lift on and off.
The whole combination can be awkward to get adequate grip on for four people to lift from ground level to above head height.
This was my experience when I 1st tried transporting on the top rack of a Mersea stack trailer.
You may need to take the wheels off the trolley!!
I have seen roof racking done with the boat upside down, trolley on top, spar bag either inside or alongside the boat. That way they can be loaded & unloaded separately, and much easier for two adults. But the Aero is designed to be transported on a gunnel-hung trolley!!
Hope this helps.
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14/05/2019 09:58:00
Jonathan Rickels
Posts: 104
I just got a new car, also with the roof rack bars closer together. For the next trip I was planning to tie a rope from the bow to the front bumper. And perhaps also from the stern to the rear bumper. This to prevent the boat from being lifted, or shaken up and down on speed bumps.
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14/05/2019 07:48:00
Maarten
Posts: 3
14/05/2019 01:43:00
david
Posts: 64
As I draw closer to ownership, I have another question (there will probably be more).
I've just found out that the roof rack fittings for my car (a VW Golf) are quite close together and the rear roof bar seems to be quite far forward.
Is this likely to be a problem for carrying my Aero?
Thank you
Dave
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I've just found out that the roof rack fittings for my car (a VW Golf) are quite close together and the rear roof bar seems to be quite far forward.
Is this likely to be a problem for carrying my Aero?
Thank you
Dave
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13/05/2019 17:49:00
Hairsy
Posts: 44
29/04/2019 23:32:00
Donald
Posts: 5
Ok ordered them, but seems not in stock because delivery in 2-3 weeks.
Downloaded instructions rssailingstore, V2.
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26/04/2019 13:48:00
Donald
Posts: 5
25/04/2019 23:53:00
Paul Gingras
Posts: 21
25/04/2019 23:38:00
Peter Barton
Posts: 4681
They do not have it on there website, but found it at west coast sailing.
$71.75 is that reasonable price for it?
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25/04/2019 13:29:00
Donald
Posts: 5
Order one from Zim Sailing or KO Sailing. Also Rooster Sailing in England can ship on to you in one week. Check prices from all three.
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25/04/2019 11:36:00
Paul Gingras
Posts: 21
24/04/2019 23:23:00
Donald
Posts: 5
Thank you again to all for the advice.
I will try to visit Island Barn Reservoir on Saturday and maybe pick some brains there too.
Dave
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24/04/2019 22:16:00
Hairsy
Posts: 44
Gareth
Retrofit version based on your description. Obviously I had no idea that there is factory fitted as well as a retrofit version. Newbie ignorance, sorry ;)
Peter, yes that top section would have done Sir Lancelot proud!
I have indeed bought a spars bag by now, but as there wasn’t one included I simply had ‘to deal’ with the top section when I picked up the boat. Hence I thought the question of ‘where will the spars go?’ fitted Dave’s brief ‘what else should I ask’, quite well. I certainly didn’t, newbie ignorance yet again ;)
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24/04/2019 20:46:00
Matt
Posts: 19
lissa&david & Gareth,
The built in mast collars did start at about #1340 but not on all new RS Aeros then as one mold was altered to fit it at a time, whilst the long waiting list for new RS Aeros was being serviced. From about #1340 through to about #1700 an increasing proportion have them. Since about #1700 all RS Aeros have them.
Early RS Aeros without built in collars can get the retrofit option. Photo: #1340 at the UK Dinghy Show in March 2015, showing off the new deck collar for the first time.
Matt,
With the RS Aero upright on its trolley on your roof all the spars fit neatly inside the raised side decks in their padded spar bag. No need to compromise the inside of the car, and not many large estates will manage the top section at 3.35m.Reply
24/04/2019 12:38:00
Peter Barton
Posts: 4681
Is it the built-in collar (flush with the deck or the retrofit which sits on the deck and goes under the attachments for the pulleys? Both work but I thought the build-in started a bit later.
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24/04/2019 08:11:00
Gareth
Posts: 170
Just picked up my used Aero a few weeks ago, so definitely not an expert ... here are my comments for whatever it’s worth:
- my #1397 has the collar. Having seen the damage I gradually caused to my Laser hull over the years and how difficult it was to repair, I really like the collar.
- I would invest into multiple rigs. Especially on the south coast it’s nice to downgrade sail size when the winds blow so you can sail without being overpowered/avoid serial capsizing, while you are new to the boat. You can always sell the smaller rig, once you are a master :)
- contact RS and ask about used boats coming in.
- think about the spars when rooftopping. The top section is quite long, will it fit into your car? Also, I know of a few cracked satnav screens and centre consoles when braking hard and the spars shot forward like a torpedo. Try sticking the front into the passenger footwell instead of placing in the centre of the car.
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24/04/2019 07:11:00
Matt
Posts: 19
*Ed- The collar in the mast step started at #1340.
That can’t quite be the case. My boat is 1424 and doesn’t have the mast step collar. Others (Derek and Eric, I believe) around the same number also don’t have it.
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24/04/2019 01:54:00
david
Posts: 64
1. There are a few coming around, not massive saving but as a first Aero may be worth it.
2. Wind indicator top of mast and clip-on lower mast. Carbon tiller ext. much nicer. Don't find need to JC strap. I do have righting lines. Fitted them after getting separated from boat. Not essential but occasionally find them very useful. Most people I know who had a centre cleat later took it off. Side cleats get in the way. Really not needed for racing - possibly of you cruise a lot - none of the top sailors have centre cleat and I can't think of anyone using side cleats.
3. Over deck controls worth it but easy to retro-fit. Wouldn't worry about it on second hand boat but nice to have. (Fit yourself once you get going). Strongly suggest sailing a few times at a club with lots of Aeros like Lymington just to see how everyone else does things.
4. I roof the boat. Easy to put on and off (usually do it on my own) but trailing is fine if you have a trailer.
5. Check water tight obviously. Check round mast pot if an older boat. Get one with plastic mast collar (or the retro-fit - without would be cheaper but I would fit the retro-fit collar)
Check deck level sleeves on mast(s) still glued onto mast (easy fix but if they start to move it can wear things).
Check joint between tiller and stock (that's where they can break)
6. Newbie things... more kicker than you thought... Lift plate BEFORE lifting rudder when coming in (or she weather cocks) - similarly rudder down first before full plat when launching. Be careful when getting into the boat after a capsize if you go over the back to not put all your weight down on the tiller (can break the joint with the stock). Getting back in can be tricky the first few times (boat comes over on top of you very easily) over the back works if you can't master over the side but be careful of the tiller.
Check deck level sleeves on mast(s) still glued onto mast (easy fix but if they start to move it can wear things).
Check joint between tiller and stock (that's where they can break)
6. Newbie things... more kicker than you thought... Lift plate BEFORE lifting rudder when coming in (or she weather cocks) - similarly rudder down first before full plat when launching. Be careful when getting into the boat after a capsize if you go over the back to not put all your weight down on the tiller (can break the joint with the stock). Getting back in can be tricky the first few times (boat comes over on top of you very easily) over the back works if you can't master over the side but be careful of the tiller.
Most people have two rigs so they can downsize for really windy days.
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23/04/2019 09:50:00
Gareth
Posts: 170
Hello Dave,
I've had my Aero since the summer of 2015 and I race it 1-2 times a week in the season. I agree with most of the feedback you've had so far. In my experience:
1) Overdeck controls are much better since you get less catching of the lines on the launching trolley and there is less drag in the control lines when you are releasing in light winds.
2) I have a road trailer but since I only use it twice a year to take the boat to and from the club I think it was a bad decision to buy it.
3) Yes, to wind indicators.
4) I haven't found a need for the JC strap or righting lines.
5) I started off thinking that I would need a mainsheet cleat and even fitted the side deck ones(available as an option). I found that for racing I didn't need to cleat the main(it was just a habit from my previous dinghies) and eventually removed them.
6) The things I would look for on an second hand Aero would be the mast collar, bolt ropes types on the sail and the type of launching trolley. All of the these things have been improved on newer boats.
7) You should consider getting a second rig for windier conditions.
I sail at Poole Yacht Club, where we have 4 Aeros, I'm sure you would be made most welcome if you decided to join.
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23/04/2019 08:48:00
Robert Holdway
Posts: 18
23/04/2019 06:26:00
Hairsy
Posts: 44
23/04/2019 05:23:00
Tijuana Taxi
Posts: 19
Definite YES to above-deck control lines!
Righting line might be handy if you're not that tall and sailing in windy conditions, especially in the beginning.
Have you tried one yet? I'm sure you local dealer will be happy to arrange a demo sail, which will answer a number of questions (and, no-doubt, spawn more--grin).
See you at Worlds later this year!
Marc JacobiReply
23/04/2019 05:18:00
heymatey
Posts: 32
1) Used boats are still rare, so not a huge bargain. But nothing wrong with saving a couple grand if you can, if the hull is dry and in good shape. There have been a few changes, most notably the collar in the mast step, so better if that's included (post boat #1800 or so?)
[*Ed- The collar in the mast step started at #1340 and after about #1700 all new RS Aeros came with it (as one mold was altered at a time). The retro fit option is also available for earlier RS Aeros. -PB]
2) Yes on carbon tiller extension, no on righting lines, as you surmised. JC strap is nice in light air, and so is masthead wind indicator for downwind. One for the lower mast as well. Mainsheet cleat would be mainly for casually cruising around in steady breeze.
3) Definitely better. I thought they could be fitted by the dealer, but not sure of that.
4) Roof is easy, even for one person. It's light!.
5) Make sure it doesn't take on any water. Besides the obvious perusal of the hull, be sure to check edges of gunwale and of blades. Check daggerboard trunk. Condition of sail.
6) They'll come to you, so keep on asking.
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23/04/2019 02:26:00
david
Posts: 64
Hi All,
I’ve spent some time looking through old posts and have picked up lots of useful information. I have a few queries but I’m also aware that there are questions that I don’t know I need to ask.
By way of background, I am very rapidly approaching 50 years of age. I spent my youth racing dinghies with my Dad on the Medway and Sydney Harbour. Over the years I have played with lots of single handers. I always held a dream of owning a laser (they were young and cool when I was young!) but having sailed lasers a number of times, and then seen what the Aero has to offer in terms of comfort, I’m feeling more inclined to the Aero. I would plan to join a club on the South Coast and race.
So the questions I know I have …
1) Second hand prices often don’t seem a huge amount less than new (assuming of course that boats sell for what they’re advertised for). This is great news for re-sale time but leaves me wondering whether I should dig deeper and buy new. Any views?
2) What are the important extras to go for? I’m thinking wind indicator and carbon tiller extension. Not so sure on righting line kit - is this necessary? I’ve never had trouble with righting monohulls in the past but maybe there’s something I don’t know here. I also feel that JC strap is something I could decide to retrofit later. Similarly with the two options for cleating the mainsheet - not sure how much I feel the need for that and can always fit later.
3) How much better are the over deck controls? Given that the factory aren’t fitting them standard, I wonder whether it’s super necessary.
4) What are people’s thoughts on roof rack Vs trailer. I get the feeling most people do roof rack. Any views on this, particularly as I won’t often have the family in tow to help?
5) Are there any tips on what to look for when viewing second hand boats? I haven’t been able to find any online articles - presumably because the Aero is so new
6) What are the newbie questions that I haven’t asked but that you think I should have?
Thank you very much in advance for any tips.
Dave
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I’ve spent some time looking through old posts and have picked up lots of useful information. I have a few queries but I’m also aware that there are questions that I don’t know I need to ask.
By way of background, I am very rapidly approaching 50 years of age. I spent my youth racing dinghies with my Dad on the Medway and Sydney Harbour. Over the years I have played with lots of single handers. I always held a dream of owning a laser (they were young and cool when I was young!) but having sailed lasers a number of times, and then seen what the Aero has to offer in terms of comfort, I’m feeling more inclined to the Aero. I would plan to join a club on the South Coast and race.
So the questions I know I have …
1) Second hand prices often don’t seem a huge amount less than new (assuming of course that boats sell for what they’re advertised for). This is great news for re-sale time but leaves me wondering whether I should dig deeper and buy new. Any views?
2) What are the important extras to go for? I’m thinking wind indicator and carbon tiller extension. Not so sure on righting line kit - is this necessary? I’ve never had trouble with righting monohulls in the past but maybe there’s something I don’t know here. I also feel that JC strap is something I could decide to retrofit later. Similarly with the two options for cleating the mainsheet - not sure how much I feel the need for that and can always fit later.
3) How much better are the over deck controls? Given that the factory aren’t fitting them standard, I wonder whether it’s super necessary.
4) What are people’s thoughts on roof rack Vs trailer. I get the feeling most people do roof rack. Any views on this, particularly as I won’t often have the family in tow to help?
5) Are there any tips on what to look for when viewing second hand boats? I haven’t been able to find any online articles - presumably because the Aero is so new
6) What are the newbie questions that I haven’t asked but that you think I should have?
Thank you very much in advance for any tips.
Dave
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22/04/2019 15:30:00
Hairsy
Posts: 44
