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| Home >> Technical >> Downhaul control line routing with new single blocks |
28/01/2025 02:35:00
Oscar
Posts: 5
Hi Oscar, I havre sailed Aeros since 2014, having had two boats. I converted my 1st to 3 single blocks, and then did the same with my 2nd 2022 boat; which must have been one of the last delivered with a double block on the Stbd' organiser.
The rope arrangement I arrived at after much experimentation is shown in the attched photographs, and is not the immediately obvious way to thread the blocks. The main characteristic is to thread the 3rd block off opposite sides of the upper double block so that under tension it tends to align with the upper block. Whereas if it is threaded off the same side it tends to align at 90 degrees, ie across the two sheaves, to the upper block. I have all rigs and do sail 5 and 9 occasionally. The range of downhaul, and hence upper block movement, is greatest on the 9 rig. So really cranking on downhaul with the 9 rig can lower the height of the upper block above the deck and the lower blocks significantly. Hence i found it better to rig this way.
Also when sailing downwind in light airs the boom will be out beyind 90 degrees on either side, port or starboard. That twists this whole set-up, particularly when out to port. And was a reason for moving to 3 single lower blocks. Twisting either way in this set-up means all 3 lower blocks find their own alignment without binding; either on each other or the mast. Swinging boom out to starboard and the Vang Kicker presses on the downhaul as the boom nears 90 degrees.
My downhaul line is as supplied by RS, and still has the end loops tied togerther. I have thought about replacing and splicing continuous line. But find the tied loops never get beyond the slack part of the line, and are easy to re-centre between races. Whereas I doubt I could splice line end to end without creating a section larger than the origiinal. Which I doubt will settle in the clam cleats as well, and it will certainly not pass through the blocks as easily. The standard 4 mm line is close to the blocks' 5 mm maximum. It would also be harder to replace. So so far I've stuck with the as supplied.
This is a rig-up I have arrived at, and used for many years. There my be others.
Reply
The rope arrangement I arrived at after much experimentation is shown in the attched photographs, and is not the immediately obvious way to thread the blocks. The main characteristic is to thread the 3rd block off opposite sides of the upper double block so that under tension it tends to align with the upper block. Whereas if it is threaded off the same side it tends to align at 90 degrees, ie across the two sheaves, to the upper block. I have all rigs and do sail 5 and 9 occasionally. The range of downhaul, and hence upper block movement, is greatest on the 9 rig. So really cranking on downhaul with the 9 rig can lower the height of the upper block above the deck and the lower blocks significantly. Hence i found it better to rig this way.
Also when sailing downwind in light airs the boom will be out beyind 90 degrees on either side, port or starboard. That twists this whole set-up, particularly when out to port. And was a reason for moving to 3 single lower blocks. Twisting either way in this set-up means all 3 lower blocks find their own alignment without binding; either on each other or the mast. Swinging boom out to starboard and the Vang Kicker presses on the downhaul as the boom nears 90 degrees.
My downhaul line is as supplied by RS, and still has the end loops tied togerther. I have thought about replacing and splicing continuous line. But find the tied loops never get beyond the slack part of the line, and are easy to re-centre between races. Whereas I doubt I could splice line end to end without creating a section larger than the origiinal. Which I doubt will settle in the clam cleats as well, and it will certainly not pass through the blocks as easily. The standard 4 mm line is close to the blocks' 5 mm maximum. It would also be harder to replace. So so far I've stuck with the as supplied.
This is a rig-up I have arrived at, and used for many years. There my be others.
Reply
26/01/2025 16:38:00
Jonathan Rickels
Posts: 108
Hi Oscar,
Deck Organiser Blocks
The Class Rules permit changing the downhaul base deck organsiser double block to two single blocks (C.6.1.3.v) and in 2022 RS Sailing started supplying new RS Aeros like that as standard. Therefore there are now 4 single blocks on the starboard organiser at the mast step, rather than 1 double and 2 singles. The Rigging Manual will likely be updated in due course, although it is not necessary as the Class Rule permission already covers it. Whilst not a necessity this is a nicety, so a nice upgrade going forwards.
See the attached photo as an example on how you might rig the line (*Thanks to Isabelle from Dalgety Bay!). I suggest you rig it up, try to ensure there are no twists in the line, and put it under tension to see which way works best without it twisting as you add and release the tension. Maybe sail with it for a couple of times before splicing it, if you are unsure.
Downhaul and Outhaul Clamcleats
The Class Rules permit swapping which control line goes in which cleat (C.6.1.3.o), so you can either rig it the;
Original Way - The opposite sides are different, to avoid the lines crossing on the deck
Each control matched on either inside or ouside cleat on each side - For ease of rembering which control is which and any front/back preference.
Personal preference, you choose!
Reply
Deck Organiser Blocks
The Class Rules permit changing the downhaul base deck organsiser double block to two single blocks (C.6.1.3.v) and in 2022 RS Sailing started supplying new RS Aeros like that as standard. Therefore there are now 4 single blocks on the starboard organiser at the mast step, rather than 1 double and 2 singles. The Rigging Manual will likely be updated in due course, although it is not necessary as the Class Rule permission already covers it. Whilst not a necessity this is a nicety, so a nice upgrade going forwards.
See the attached photo as an example on how you might rig the line (*Thanks to Isabelle from Dalgety Bay!). I suggest you rig it up, try to ensure there are no twists in the line, and put it under tension to see which way works best without it twisting as you add and release the tension. Maybe sail with it for a couple of times before splicing it, if you are unsure.
Downhaul and Outhaul Clamcleats
The Class Rules permit swapping which control line goes in which cleat (C.6.1.3.o), so you can either rig it the;
Original Way - The opposite sides are different, to avoid the lines crossing on the deck
Each control matched on either inside or ouside cleat on each side - For ease of rembering which control is which and any front/back preference.
Personal preference, you choose!
Reply
25/01/2025 16:12:00
Peter Barton
Posts: 5114
Thanks Marc! That is very helpful. I'm planning on splicing a continuous loop once I get the lenghts right.
Reply
Reply
23/01/2025 06:06:00
Oscar
Posts: 5
Hi Oscar. I can't be of much help with the deck organizer blocks, but do have strong opinions on how the downhaul and outhaul lines should be led to the side deck clam cleats.
The outhaul is rarely adjusted; the downhaul much more so. One wants to be able to pull on large amounts of downhaul as easily as possible. In my opinion this means leading the tails through the forward clam cleats on both sides. The outhaul lines get led to the aft cleats. Believe this contradicts what is ln the manual.
See below for a video I made on the subject. Note how the lines have been tied in order to fine-tune lengths before the finality of splicing. One can even sail with them tied this way.
Marc Jacobi
https://youtu.be/wE6xb0vCm5I?si=aRxDzFMTxw2yBpqp
Reply
The outhaul is rarely adjusted; the downhaul much more so. One wants to be able to pull on large amounts of downhaul as easily as possible. In my opinion this means leading the tails through the forward clam cleats on both sides. The outhaul lines get led to the aft cleats. Believe this contradicts what is ln the manual.
See below for a video I made on the subject. Note how the lines have been tied in order to fine-tune lengths before the finality of splicing. One can even sail with them tied this way.
Marc Jacobi
https://youtu.be/wE6xb0vCm5I?si=aRxDzFMTxw2yBpqp
Reply
23/01/2025 05:12:00
heymatey
Posts: 35
I want to try using single blocks for the downhaul line instead of the double block on the starboard side deck organizer, and I can't find a diagram of how to route the line through the new single blocks. Found the "newest" Aero rigging guide (the one that has Ronstan shocks instead of blocks to manage the downhaul line by the traveler), but it still shows a double block used at the deck organizer. I tried different configurations but thought it would be a good idea to ask what people are using here. So, does anyone has a routing through single blocks they prefer?
Also, the rigging guide now shows the downhaul and outhaul control lines reversed at the clamcleats. Previous rigging guides showed the outhaul using the aft cleat, and now it's the forward cleat. Any reason for the change? Thanks!
Reply
Also, the rigging guide now shows the downhaul and outhaul control lines reversed at the clamcleats. Previous rigging guides showed the outhaul using the aft cleat, and now it's the forward cleat. Any reason for the change? Thanks!
Reply
22/01/2025 19:03:00
Oscar
Posts: 5
