It's part technique - in 2 stages:-
1. 1st haul & tighten - as per Lisa & David you really do have to reach forward with both arms outstretched, and pull hard down with the outer hand - making sure nothing is hindering the pull on the sail; i.e. tack strap above lower mast button, and no kicker whatsoever.
2. As per Gareth check the grip in the upper halyard cleat by pulling on downhaul, and holding. If downhaul doesn't return to pre-pull position the halyard has slipped, and you need to sweat it up again. Finally check by standing back & looking to top of mast. Any slip reduces the downhaul range!!
And partly the halyard primary rope itself!!
The halyard has to distort in order to fit the tapered jaws of the clam cleat.
The teeth of the cleat point upwards!! So in order for the primary to slide into the clam it must slide back!! You can check this by laying the mast down on the deck and feeding the halyard through, then grip the sailhead ball end and apply sail load & downhaul pressure on the pre-gripped halyard. You will see how much it moves in order to fit into the clam.
> 2 inches I found typical on the halyard rope supplied by RS on my early boat!!
A covered Dyneema replacement didn't slip much less!!
A bare 12 strand dyneema 6 mm rope for the primary has been >> better!!
https://www.pinbax.com/index.asp?mc=Rope&sc=Splicing%20Rope&ssc=6mm%20Splicing%20Rope
The Marlow is the one I use currently.
Sailing virtually 2 X per week for the past 3 years this has slipped only once, and then because I knew I hadn't pulled hard enough; 1 in 300!!
It beds in 1st pull and does not need a 2nd sweat. But I still check.
Tapered splicing to a 3.5 mm 2'ry / tail in the same rope gives a smooth passage through the Eye at the top of the mast & into the clamcleat. Visible wear on the outer fibres?
None so far!
I recommend it.