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| Home >> Technical >> vang cleat and mainsheet block - push and slide |
Thanks for the tips.
My 12 year old son sailed it in our Sunday races yesterday. One of our experienced Solo sailors helped with getting the halyard very well cleated, then everything worked fine.
Beating a Laser 2000 on the water (sailed by a couple of our other juniors) was a nice new experience for him!
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24/04/2017 16:53:01
Posts: 0
When you hoist the sail pull it right up and halyard into the top cleat. Then attach downhaul and pull it REALLY hard on. Release downhaul and look up. head of sail is probably a couple of inches down. Pull it back up and repeat until adding downhaul does not move the top. Important to always pull the downhaul hard on to bed the rope into the top cleat and then release downhaul before mushroom and lower cleat or you might pull the top out. Do not put the tail too tight into the lower cleat. If you work the bobble fairly tight first one cycle is usually enough.
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24/04/2017 08:53:23
Gareth
Posts: 170
Hi Mike,
Welcome to the Class and glad you enjoyed it.
Those fittings are best tight and once on you are only likely to ever want to remove if you want to stack RS Aeros for travelling.
The first couple of sails when the main halyard is brand new it will slip a little. After that, provided you pull the halyard forward to engage the cleat well it should be fine. Do a crucifix with your arms, one hand against the front of the mast and the other pushing the halyard tail forwards to best engage the cleat.
If the knot jams at the mast head fairlead back it off a little a pull decisively. As it goes around a 180' corner it jams if you pull it slowly.
The knot should be a double sheet bend.
Check the thicker part of the halyard has the core removed from the part in the knot (about 60mm) to reduce the size of the knot.
Happy sailing!
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23/04/2017 23:14:55
Peter Barton
Posts: 4678
Regards the Main Halyard, I placed the small diameter halyard within the thicker blue rope, then used some whipping twine and a bodkin to join the two pieces. Finally whip finish at both ends. This runs smoothly through the top loop.
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23/04/2017 20:38:56
Mike0rea
Posts: 58
Thanks for the advice, it worked. After a bit of jiggling I could get the vang cleat to sit in the holes, then the block-and-hammer worked to tap it into place.
My mainsheet block issue was a little different. The pins and holes lined up beautifully, but the block wouldn't push forward into place. The plastic pins are basically nuts, so I tried unscrewing them and testing the mechanism with different pins screwed in. The front pin is fine, but the two back pins can't go deep enough to allow the mechanism to move. The wells that those two sit are shallower (seem to be over screws that hold the end of the toestrap). I could try screwing the toestrap screws a bit tighter to make a little more room. Then I realized it was sunny with 6-7 knots of breeze, so I sailed with the main straight from the boom - I'll figure out the main cleat next time.
I’m sure I don't have the main halyard quite right, my join really doesn't squeeze through the clew very well and it's not holding in the cleats very well (my downhaul pulls the sail down a bit rather than tensioning the luff). So I have plenty to work on.
Acceleration is fantastic. Amazing boat.
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22/04/2017 19:06:31
Posts: 0
I had a similar problem on min (2194). The main sheet block needed a block of wood to help it in as Mike says. My Vang cleat pins didn't line up and I compared it to a couple of others at the club and I wasn't happy. I contacted RS and they replaced it (cleat and hull plate) no problem. The new one was still tight but could be put in by hand.
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22/04/2017 18:32:53
Ian White
Posts: 3
Hi Mike. I had the same problem with mine. It does need to be persuaded. I used a block of wood and a hammer. Don't go mad.
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22/04/2017 11:19:00
Mike0rea
Posts: 58
I'm just rigging Aero 2274 for the first time.
The mainsheet block and the vang cleat don't seem a very easy fit.
The three pins of the mainsheet block drop in place easily, but it the doesn't want to slide forward. The vang cleat pins don't quite align with the three holes.
Is this all fine, within the normal tolerance on the parts, and the blocks are a tight fit, so just need a good shove? Or is this unusual and possibly something I should talk to RS about?
Thanks
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22/04/2017 08:06:37
Posts: 0
